21st Century Vintages

David and Lynne Hammond of Burgundy Discovery take small groups wine tasting, introducing them to Burgundy's independent, family winegrowers. Here they discuss the annual vintages and the highs and lows brought about by nature.

Pinot Noir grapes on the vine

Over the past five years Lynne and David Hammond have seen the seasons come and go, observed the precious vines in the vineyards, met and talked to the winegrowers as they work on the land and in their cellars. This contact with winegrowers in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits and Côte Chalonnaise areas has enabled them to compare the different vintages first hand from 2002 through to 2007. Burgundy’s two grape varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay respond differently to the climatic conditions, and with nature and nurture each year brings its own unique aromas and tastes. The beauty of Burgundy is that inevitably you will find an appellation or vintage to enjoy.

2002

2002 proved to be a good year for Burgundy wines and definitely a great year for the Chardonnay. The climatic conditions made for healthy grapes; a warm and sunny summer with an occasional rainstorm and a sunny but fresh September for the harvest with soft northerly winds. On the nose the wines are elegant and aromatic with aromas of flowers and fresh fruit, good minerality and freshness to make a complex bouquet. In the mouth they are exemplary: smooth, full and well rounded, powerful in some cases. These wines will continue to develop and are good for laying down.

2002 is the year for the Côte de Nuits, in particular Gevrey-Chambertin and in the northern Côte de Beaune villages of Aloxe, Ladoix and Savigny. For both the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir the Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Hautes Côtes de Nuits have also produced good quality wines, where their alcohol levels were slightly higher than usual. These you will find very fruity with soft tannins. 20 kilometres south in the Côte Chalonnaise the whites were perfumed and well balanced and the reds often similar to the 1999 vintage. The Mercurey reds were ruby in colour, ripe and silky in the mouth.

The regional and Village Pinot Noirs also ripened well, in most cases, produced charming, deeply-coloured wines with flower and fruit aromas (a cocktail of red and black fruits). In the mouth they had good balance, depth, body, assertive but gentle tannins, and good length. A quality wine that should best drunk when it is at least 3 years old.

Post script: The 2002 vintages have evolved and matured and it is a real treat to start appreciating the older-style of pinot noirs now reports Lynne, January 2008.

2003

2003 was the year of the heatwave, where at night time the temperature was still 25 degrees. Indeed we remember driving home after 10.00pm one evening through Beaune and the temperature read 32 degrees in our car! Winegrowers had no living memory of these difficult weather conditions; you would have to go back over 200 years to find similar records. In addition there were severe, late frosts in April which affected many vineyards We saw temperatures of –7 in Chablis and –5 in Meursault, this was followed by heavy hail on Friday 13 th June, then the temperatures started to rise on 10th July reaching initially 30 degrees in Beaune, then 42 degrees at its peak in August. As we toured the vineyards in August we could see the grapes withering in the heat. On the high slopes they resembled raisins. Due to the fast ripening of the grapes the harvest took place a month early in mid-August. In the Côte Chalonnaise the harvest started on August 13th and in the Côte de Beaune August 15th – never heard of before! Those winegrowers that had machine harvesters benefited from the “cooler” conditions at night, while the pickers had to struggle through day-time temperatures of 35 to 40 degrees!

With the combination of difficult growing conditions the amount of yield per hectare was greatly reduced, many winegrowers harvesting 50% less than normal. However the wines were packed full of fruit and deep in colour, the reds resembled New World Pinots. The debate on the balance of this years wines is still out today, winegrowers watching with interest how the wines are maturing in the bottle. Initially the view was that the whites should be drunk quite young, however in a recent article by Bourgogne Aujourd’hui (Jan 2006) the wines found in the south of the Côte de Beaune - Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Saint Aubin are maturing extremely well and are resulting in some superb wines. As for the reds in those appellations, which are big and characteristic of the year, the quantity produced is so small that it will be difficult to find them, not least lay them down!

As a guide though 2003 whites can be kept up to 4 years and the reds 5, winegrowers suggest that if you have 2002 and 2003 in your cellar, drink the 2003 first.

2004

This year was comparable to that of 15 years ago where the winegrowers had immense problems with mildew, oïdium and rotting grapes – it could have been devastating. However, later, producers were extremely surprised at the eventual quality, particularly in the Côte de Nuits.

Following a normal Spring, the vines were full of buds and set for a large crop. This was good news considering the tough climatic conditions the vines had to endure the previous summer. However August proved to be poor, dismal, rainy and cold for the time of year and mildew was a problem for many growers. Many winegrowers decided to control their yield and reduced the number of bunches on the vines.

The 2004 Chardonnay is fresh and fine flavoured, with a good balance between minerality and richness. There were thunderous hailstorms in Volnay, which destroyed a significant number of grapes. As we approached the end of August winegrowers were increasingly gloomy, but the vintage was saved by a wonderful sunny September, where temperatures were above average. Smiles began to appear on their faces and the swift ripening of the grapes and the dry weather kept the grapes in good condition. Now we are talking about a good vintage year!

Post script: The pinot noirs for 2004 are just opening up now and we are finding them very fine and elegant – a typical Burgundy style so unlike 2003. Reported by Lynne, January 2008.

2005

"Grand MillÉsime” - The best ever vintage?

The greatest reds and very good whites – this is the reaction to the 2005 vintages. Better than 2002? Yes! This applies to all the wine growing areas in Burgundy from Chablis in the north through the Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise and the southern Mâconnais.

As we reported before the weather conditions were just perfect. Winegrowers had thought that the heat wave during the summer could block the grapes maturation as was in 1976, but the soft rainfall later in the season re-established the balance. Weather conditions were favourable throughout the whole year, dry and largely sunny, with just the right amount of rain and favourable northerly winds. The only shadow was the devastating hailstorm in the south of the Côte de Beaune - Maranges, Santenay and the tip of Chassagne Montrachet in the third week of July. The vines were stripped of their leaves and the grapes punctured and splattered by walnut-sized hailstones. Much of the crop was irretrievable.

The first grapes were picked on the 1st September in the Côte Chalonnaise and the rest of the region resumed their normal picking rhythm commencing between the 10th and 15th September. For example, the Hospices de Beaune received its first grapes on the 14th. The sugar content indicated potential alcoholic levels between 12 and 13,5 degrees, but still well balanced with a good level of tannins.

What constitutes a “Grand Millésime” a “Great Vintage”?

A wine named a Great Vintage reveals itself concentrated and balanced. It is generally from, but not necessarily, low yields and early ripening. In all cases it has come from perfect healthy and rot-free grapes.

After the unusual year of 2003 and a trying 2004 it was great to see smiles on the winegrowers faces during the 2005 harvest and now they are grinning like a cat that has found the cream! A wine merchant from Meursault, Fabien Cipriano, reports that many French and overseas clients are coming to Burgundy just to buy the 2005 vintages. Why?

These great reds are silky, rich, elegant, and perfectly typical of what one would expect from classic Burgundy to lay down. The whites are full in the mouth, generous, with notes of ripe fruits and with coated minerality. Really top-notch.

Find some space in you cellar now- and let them continue to mature and develop into the best wine of the millennium (so far)!

Some of the first 2005 that we have tasted include two reds – a stunning rich and silky Rully 1er Cru Les Pieres from Domaine Michel Briday, spicey and concentrated Santenay 1er Cru Les Graviers from Domaine Borgeot and a Monthélie white from Domaine Bouzerand-Dujardin which is rounded and delicate with a touch of toastiness.

2006

2006 is summarised as “Le millésime de plasir” a “Vintage of pleasure”. Voluptuous, supple and rich, 2006 are a treat for burgundy wine lovers and even as young wines they are very agreeable to drink. The whites are of equal quality throughout the whole of Burgundy and there are some unexpected surprises from the reds. Thus the 2006 is noted as a “Grand Millésime” for the chardonnay and a “Petit Millésime” for the pinot noir.

The reds: The harvest had hardly finished when some winegrowers pronounced that the weather conditions in 2006 had had an adverse affect of the pinot noirs After all wet conditions are precarious for the fragile pinot noir. However, several months and a few thousand bottles later everything had changed. Although not a great year, a satisfactory year. The pinots are gourmet wines: voluptuous, fruity with a deep and silky texture and well structured. So what happened? It is simply down to the work in the vineyards – debudding, green harvest and smaller yields, strict sorting at harvest time in the vineyards and at the winery. With the elimination of un-ripe or rotten grapes and resulting wines were higher in quality than expected.

The whites: The chardonnays are a real success and the quality is spread throughout all of the winegrowing areas. Those winegrowers that waited and acted at the right moment in the nurturing and tending of their vines and who picked at just the right moment of maturity were highly rewarded. (There had been concern for winegrowers who may have waited too late with over-ripe berries.) For good winegrowers their patience has paid off and now it is us who benefit from these beautiful wines. Tastings during the summer of 2007 pronounced a very promising vintage year. The whites have a rich texture are unctuous, fruity with flattering aromas of peach and apricot. A very good year for Chardonnay.

2007

What a challenging year for the winegrower! Only time will tell. The weather could not have been so diverse during the year. We had a lovely warm March and April where the vines were galloping away and bursting into bud a month early. Could this year be a repeat of 2003 – an early harvest again? But no, we had an awful summer, cold and rainy with much rot in the vineyards. The harvest eventually started at the end of August and was very protracted finishing at the end of September with low yields. The grapes were maturing at different times in different parts of the Côtes. For many winegrowers it was stop-start, stop-start. However many growers were very pleased with the quality of the grapes at harvest and with good winemaking the 2007 vintage could turn out to be good.

David and Lynne Hammond Tel: 00 33 (0) 3 85 49 51 34

www.burgundydiscovery.com

If you would like any further information, contact David and Lynne by e.mail:
info@burgundydiscovery.com

Buying Property in Burgundy, France

Where to Buy in Burgundy?

A choice of landscapes from vineyards to woodlands, rivers to rolling hills, each distinctive and beautiful in its own right. So where do you start looking for a home? Carolyn Carrington from Burgundy4U pinpoints the differences in prices and house styles across the region.

Beaune and the Côte d’Or

Beaune and its surrounding villages – Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, Pommard - are well known as the most important wine-producing area of Burgundy. This reputation, combined with all the architectural, cultural and gastronomic attractions, ensures visitors from all over the world at any time of the year. Its prosperity has also brought a high level of employment – with consequences for anyone looking to buy here. For all its prettiness, this is working Burgundy, and workers need to buy houses too… Prices around Beaune and along the Côte de Nuits up to Dijon are therefore high, but this also means that this will never become region of holiday homes, neglected for most of the year; settling here would be moving into a vital and dynamic part of France.

A two-bedroom property in need of some modernisation in a wine village will sell for around 135 000 euros. 230 000 to 300 000 euros will buy a three-bedroom family home, ready to move into. A more imposing “maison bourgeoise” or a town house in one of the prestigious villages such as Meursault can be found between 350 000 and 450 000.

Moving west, away from Beaune and the vines, one finds another face of the Côte d’Or. The vineyards are replaced by fields of cattle, sheep or crops. Here, there are also hilltop villages, hamlets made up of farms, cottages and outbuildings made of local stone, and busy little towns where small shops still survive. Recently, the younger generation here have begun to re-discover the charm of these old cottages and town-houses, eschewed by their parents in favour of modern bungalows – but there are still bargains to be found around the lovely historic towns of Pouilly and Semur-en-Auxois. You may find a run-down traditional stone-built cottage, with two bedrooms, and possibly dubious plumbing, for under 100 000 euros; a holiday home in good condition, with rental potential can be had for between 150 000 and 200 000 euros. Alternatively, at this price you might prefer to invest in a grander property in need of renovation. A budget of 300 000 euros will stretch to a classic stone house, a good-sized garden and outbuildings to develop.

Châtillonnais

A place to watch for property buyers, this is not the Burgundy of vine covered slopes and hilltop villages, but of gentler rolling countryside, of vast forests and rivers in the north east, reaching out to the borders of Champagne. The town of Châtillon-sur-Seine overlooks the river, has picturesque architecture, and houses the famous “Trésor de Vix” – a wealth of artefacts from pre-Roman finds. Despite this attraction for history enthusiasts, the Châtillon area has escaped mass-tourism. It offers a simple charm for country living, with plenty of opportunities for hunting (a French passion), fishing and other relaxing pastimes. What is more, the property prices have remained quite reasonable, being at least 10% lower than other parts of Burgundy.

A traditional stone one-bedroom cottage in good condition will fetch around 75 000 euros, but this area also offers more grandiose style of property, at anything BUT grandiose prices. A “maison de maître” – a small manor house- with some work to be done can come with a price-tag as modest as 100 000 euros; a stylish home with swimming pool is available for under 350 000 euros, and 370 000 can buy a genuine “presbytere”. Imagine that in the Cotswolds in England!

The Mâconnais

Situated in the Saône-et-Loire department, the southernmost part of Burgundy, the area around Mâcon and Cluny has quite a distinct character. The traditional “mâconnais” house will be built in stone over wine cellars and have a wooden-framed gallery running across the front, an inviting place to enjoy an aperitif, if you are lucky, overlooking the local vineyards. South of Mâcon the architecture changes, the gently curving pale terracotta roof tiles having a hint of the provençal about them. Here, again, the law of supply and demand dictates higher prices than in most other part of the region, as the area is very popular with the Lyonnais, looking for their own weekend bolt-hole, away from the bright lights and bustle of France’s second city.

Prepare to pay around 90 to 100 000 euros for a one bedroom house, probably in need of modernisation. A two-bedroom village house in reasonable condition or a rustic cottage suitable for holidays may be found at 150k. If you are looking for a comfortable family home, with traditional features intact, your budget should be over 250 000 euros.

Proximity to the major motorways, TGV station or airport will be a factor in the price of property, and if you are prepared to branch out into the Charollais or Brionnais countryside you may find that elusive gem for renovation, still within driving distance of historic Cluny or Tournus.

Louhans

A visit to the lively agricultural market in Louhans, one of the most famous in Burgundy, gives an idea of the character of this region, and the style of property most typically offered: half-timbered low-level farmhouses with long sloping roofs, built in brick, usually with, at least, a small plot of land.

Over the last 20 years many of these traditional farmhouses have been bought by the Swiss, taking advantage of its easy access from Geneva. However, the reputation of the Bresse chicken has saved the area from becoming a holiday haven for foreigners and it retains its French regional flavour.

A one bedroom farmhouse to be renovated can be found for around 60 000 euros; a two-bedroom house in good condition with around half and acre of garden will cost in the 160 000 to 200 000 euros, and there are fully renovated estates with hectares of land at 600 000 to 700 000 euros, suitable for equestrian estates or chambres d’hôtes.

Vézelay and the North Morvan

Vézelay– the very name conjures up images of devout pilgrims following in the footsteps of St James on the historic path to Compostela, pausing in this atmospheric town, dominated by its magnificent basilica. Yet, despite its fame, the area around Vézelay still offers good value for the property buyer. On rare occasions, properties in the town itself come onto the market – a one-bedroom apartment was being offered for 99 000 euros and an elegant 4 bedroom townhouse at 200k – but a two to three bedroom cottage in habitable condition in a nearby village will cost around between 100 000 and 125 000 euros. Five hundred thousand euros will buy an impressive 8 bedroom residence with land.

Farther afield, heading into the northern part of the Morvan Park or the relatively undiscovered Puisaye area, bargains abound. You will find stone built farmhouses for renovation in these agricultural areas, or quite elegant “maisons bourgeoises”. 160 000 euros can buy a 3-bedroom home in perfect condition with an acre or two, whereas 300 000 euros buys a renovated mill on a riverside setting.

Auxerre

This is the orchard of Burgundy. To the south and east of the town there is the wine growing region which includes the famous town of Chablis, and the lesser known, but up and coming villages of Irancy, St.Bris-le-Vineux and Coulanges-la-Vineuse. In addition to the vines, apple and cherry orchards burst with blossom in spring across the landscape. There is renovation activity around these pretty villages which are popular both with foreigners and Parisians.

Auxerre itself provides everything in the way of services and supplies, and being the administrative centre of the Yonne department, all the government offices are there too.

Autun and the South Morvan

In many ways the lovely cathedral city of Autun is slightly overshadowed by its more renowned neighbours – and what a bonus for those looking to buy here! Its population is swelled in the summer months by the cosmopolitan visitors who have discovered its secrets. They share the tables of the numerous pavement cafés with the local working and student population, and browse the excellent market stalls with residents of the outlying villages – this is, after all, the gateway to the southern part of the Morvan Natural Park, sometimes compared to the Peak District in the north of England.

With its historical richesse (Roman amphitheatre, 11th century frescoes, interesting churches), Autun is an interesting place to visit, but it is also a pleasing place to live, whether one chooses to town house along one of its boulevards, or a fermette in a Morvan nearby village. Here an old barn or small cottage for renovation can still be snapped up for around 50 000 euros, and 200 000 to 250 000 euros will buy a four or five bedroom house.

A word about the Nièvre

This is the least explored part of Burgundy. The Morvan Natural Park falls in the eastern side of this department and here there is a good choice of reasonably priced property for sale. The western area is a little off the beaten track and it is not yet popular with Parisians or foreign buyers who wish to travel a short distance from the major axes of communication. Consequently, prices remain very attractive. La Charité-sur-Loire and the wine growing area of Pouilly-sur-Loire north of Nevers are waiting to be discovered.

To view a comprehensive range of property available, visit www.burgundy4u.com.

Competition Burgundy Today

LIFT OFF 2008 WIN A HOT AIR BALLOON FLIGHT FOR TWO WITH FRANCE MONTGOLFIERES

Capture the romance of Burgundy by taking a balloon flight over the picturesque villages and stately châteaux, skimming across the wheat fields and maybe even touching the clouds. France Montgolfières, the largest balloon operator in France, is offering burgundytoday readers the chance to win a voyage of a lifetime for two people.

The flight takes off near Vézelay, one of the most beautiful medieval towns in Burgundy, famous for its Basilica. As balloons fly when the weather is cool and calm, take off is just after dawn, or about two hours before sunset when the light is at its best. You will fly for about an hour, and in true French style, enjoy a celebratory glass of bubbly on landing. Who knows what you will see en route: maybe the deer in the forest, nuns scurrying to vespers, barges on the Canal du Nivernais, an eagle catching its prey. This is an adventure, as you float along with the wind.
And you will be in good hands, France Montgolfières have been operating in Burgundy for over twenty years under French air transport regulations.

If you would like to enter this prize draw to win a hot air balloon flight for two people from Vézelay, answer the following question:

Who invented the hot air balloon? Was it:
a) The Wright Brothers b) The Montgolfière Brothers c) Louis Blériot
e.mail your answer to competition@burgundytoday.com

Open to readers worldwide. Closing date for this competition is January 31, 2008. The correct answers will go into a prize draw; the winner will be notified by e.mail and the result will be posted on the notice board of burgundytoday. The prize is valid until October 31, 2008